Half swing drivers Pro
Half-swing drivers that build the feeling of solid contact without the tension of a full swing.
78 drills by part of the game. The 16 free drills are shown in full; Pro drills show what they are for and run in the app.
Half-swing drivers that build the feeling of solid contact without the tension of a full swing.
3/4 drivers at the same smooth tempo as the half swings. The distance comes from the longer swing, not from swinging harder.
Full driver swings at a specific target. The goal is consistent direction, not maximum distance.
Hit full drivers at a specific target in the distance (a flag, a yardage sign, a tree)
A tee-shot accuracy drill scored against a fairway you pick on the range. This trains accuracy over distance.
Hit drives at an imagined fairway about 30 yards wide
Drivers on the launch monitor, focused on finding the center of the face. For most amateurs the optimal launch is 12-15 degrees with moderate spin.
A driver drill for a faster, freer swing through the ball while staying balanced. Warm up first with easy swings. No launch monitor needed.
Hit drives teed higher than normal with the ball forward in your stance
Overspeed training with a speed-training stick. It is taxing, so warm up thoroughly, build up gradually, and stop if you feel any strain.
A driver drill that adds speed from the ground up instead of from extra effort: stepping into the shot starts the downswing. Warm up first.
Shows how little distance you lose at a smooth 80% swing and how much control you gain. Max-effort swings are demanding, so warm up fully, build up gradually, and stop if you feel any strain.
A clubhead speed test on the launch monitor. Re-test monthly to see your speed trend. Warm up first.
A driver drill for hitting the ball while the club is moving slightly upward. Warm up first.
Hit drives teed high with the ball forward off your lead heel
A launch monitor check of attack angle: whether the club is moving up or down when it meets the ball. With the driver you want a positive (upward) number. Warm up first.
3-woods swept off the turf into a 30-yard-wide window with a shallow, level strike. Prioritize a clean, ball-first sweep over distance.
Hit 3-woods off the turf at a 30-yard-wide window
Hybrids swept into a 30-yard-wide window with a shallow, level strike. An accuracy drill that needs no equipment.
Hit hybrids at a 30-yard-wide window
The target circle drill with a 5-iron and a 20-yard circle. A good 5-iron strike feels effortless.
Draws and fades with your hybrid on the simulator, using the sim data to see how much your path (the club's direction through impact) and face angle (which way the clubface points at impact) change between shapes.
Your stock shot is the neutral ball flight you default to under pressure. This drill hits it at one target, ten times in a row.
Draws on command: a shot that starts right of your target line and curves back left (for right-handers).
Fades on command: a shot that starts left of your target line and curves back right (for right-handers).
Draw, straight, and fade on consecutive shots. Changing shape every ball forces you to adjust your setup and commit to each one.
The target circle drill with a 7-iron and a 15-yard circle. The longer club produces more dispersion, so the target is wider.
A different iron on every shot. This simulates the course, where you rarely hit the same club twice in a row.
Your stock shot (the neutral, repeatable shot you default to under pressure), hit with a 7-iron on the simulator and measured for consistency. The goal is a tight cluster (low dispersion: how spread out your shots are), not maximum distance.
Ten shots with your go-to iron. When time is short, quality reps with one club are worth more than scattered reps with many.
Smooth 7-irons with your feet together. A narrow base forces you to find the center of the face and stay balanced, and any mishit shows up immediately.
Hit 7-irons with your feet together
Foot powder spray or face tape on the clubface shows exactly where you are striking the ball. A contact check that needs no launch monitor.
Apply face spray or impact tape and hit 5 shots
An impact bag teaches the impact position (hands forward, shaft leaning toward the target) without ball flight to distract you. Warm up first, ease into it, and stop if you feel any strain in your wrists or hands.
Shots with a towel a few inches behind the ball. This trains a ball-first strike and a forward low point.
7-irons on the launch monitor, judged by smash factor: ball speed divided by club speed, a measure of how centered the strike was. Warm up first.
Smooth swings with your feet together. A narrow base punishes any tempo or balance fault: if you fall off balance, you swung too hard.
Iron shots off grass, judged by where the divot starts. A divot on the target side of the ball means a descending, ball-first strike.
Hit irons off grass and look at each divot
A pass-or-fail check that the club reaches the bottom of its swing in front of the ball, not behind it.
A 9-iron accuracy test: land the ball inside a 10-yard circle around a range target.
Rehearsal pumps that train the feeling of compressing the ball, with the shaft leaning toward the target at impact. Warm up and keep the pumps controlled.
Easy half swings for solid contact and tempo. The goal is to loosen up your swing, not to hit full shots.
Wedge shots to three targets at 50, 75, and 100 yards. The backswing length that produces each distance becomes your reference point on the course.
Gap wedge shots to 40, 60, and 80 yard targets. Comparing the landing spot with where the ball finishes teaches you how much roll-out to expect.
Sand wedge shots to 20, 40, and 60 yard targets. Only the backswing length changes between them.
Full sand wedge shots to a 100-yard target. Your carry distance here is your baseline number for the course.
Gap wedge shots to an 80-yard target with a 3/4 backswing.
Lob wedge shots to a 60-yard target. This is a feel distance: too far for a chip, too short for a full swing.
High, soft-landing flop shots from 30 yards. The shot needs commitment, because decelerating causes a chunk.
Full sand wedge swings to find the club's maximum carry. On the course, when a yardage falls between two of your positions, take the longer swing and control it rather than forcing the shorter one.
A different wedge distance on every shot, using the clock-position swing lengths (how far back your lead arm swings: 9:00 is parallel to the ground, 10:30 is about 3/4 back) to control distance. This simulates the course, where you rarely get the same distance twice.
Measure your real pitching wedge carry on a launch monitor. Many golfers overestimate their distances by 10-15 yards.
Easy half shots to get your body moving and find your tempo for the day.
3/4 swings that build on the tempo from the half shots.
Full pitching wedge swings once your body is warm. The carry distance is your baseline wedge number for the round.
Wedge shots to three targets at different distances, judged by where the ball lands.
A low chip that pops up briefly and then rolls out like a putt.
Hit bump-and-run chips with a putting-like stroke
Bump-and-run chips with an 8-iron from 10 yards off the green.
High, soft-landing lob wedge shots from light rough near the green. The shot needs full commitment, because decelerating causes a chunk.
Chip and putt out from spots all around the green, tracking your up-and-down percentage.
Chips to three landing spots at increasing distance, judged by where the ball lands rather than where it finishes. This is the basis of short-game distance control.
Pick three landing spots at increasing distance (10, 20, and 30 yards is a good starting spread) and chip 3 balls to each
Pitches to 30, 40, and 50 yard targets. Distance is controlled by the length of the backswing, not by swing speed.
Hit 5 pitches to each of three targets: 30, 40, and 50 yards
The shortest clock position: a low, running pitch of about 15 yards. Imagine your left arm as a clock hand (for right-handers).
The middle clock position: left arm parallel to the ground, for about 30 yards. The longer backswing adds the distance, not a harder swing.
The longest clock position: about 3/4 of a full backswing, for about 50 yards of carry. Distance comes from backswing length, not swing speed.
The standard greenside bunker shot. The club never touches the ball; the sand carries it out.
Bunker shots from uneven lies. Uphill lies fly higher and shorter; downhill lies come out lower and run more.
Bunker shots of more than 30 yards. The key is taking less sand than on a short bunker shot.
Four 3-footers from around the hole, made in a row. This builds confidence on the short putts.
Place 4 balls in a circle, each 3 feet from the hole (north, south, east, west)
Three-foot putts through a tee gate. This trains a square putter face at impact: if you miss the gate, the face was open or closed.
Putts to tees at 10, 20, and 30 feet. This develops your feel for different distances on lag putts.
Place tees at 10, 20, and 30 feet from your starting point
Four 4-footers from around the hole, which gives you a variety of breaks: straight, left-to-right, right-to-left, uphill, and downhill.
Lag putts from 30-40 feet, judged on speed alone. Good speed makes the next putt a tap-in regardless of the line.
Putts to 10, 20, 30, and 40 feet. The goal is consistent speed, not making putts.
Ten straight 3-footers in a row. The pressure you feel as you get close to 10 is the point of the drill.
Five breaking 6-footers in a row. The 6-footer is the par save and the birdie conversion.
Chip and putt out from the fringe, counted out of 10. Tour average is about 60%; try to beat 50%.
A lag putting game to 21 points, played alone or against a partner. It rewards getting the ball to the hole and penalizes leaving it short.
A pre-round putting routine. You are calibrating your touch for the day's greens, not working on mechanics.
Five straight 5-footers in a row. A quick way to groove your stroke on a putt you face several times every round.
Five holes on the simulator, played as if you were on the course. The focus is course management.
A counting drill for a smooth, unhurried tempo, with the backswing taking about three times as long as the downswing (3:1). It smooths out a rushed transition and needs no equipment.
Hit shots counting 1-2 on the backswing and 3 on the downswing
A no-ball drill for tempo and for speed in the right place. The loudest swoosh should come at the bottom of the swing, past the ball, not at the top.
Turn a club upside down, hold it by the shaft just below the clubhead, and swing the grip end
Swinging to a metronome to find a rhythm you can repeat. Warm up first and keep it smooth.
Warm up, then check your backswing-to-downswing ratio against the tour 3:1 standard with a tempo-training app or a launch monitor.
Content from Range Reps v2.0.0.